Gardening Tips

by Teresa Odle

If you’re like me, you prefer looking at a beautiful flowering vine to your neighbor’s garbage can. Even  when  you know and like your neighbors, you enjoy privacy in certain areas of your home and yard. A well-placed trellis can help provide privacy and it’s a practical tool for controlling growth of certain vines and plants.

Got tomatoes? How about metal cages to hold them up? Instead, you can use a trellis system with multiple sides. It’s much more attractive and still does the trick. Trellises also work for keeping cucumbers and grapes off the ground and look much better than cages, ropes, metal wire or chains and other homemade devices. And some ornamentals, such as Gelsemium sempervirens, or Carolina jessamine or jasmine, require a trellis or some sort of support.

The best feature of trellises, however, is that they serve an architectural and decorative purpose in the garden. You can use them as a sort of wall for privacy, to separate areas of the garden, cut wind or add height for effect. Whether

Trellises add character and privacy to your garden.

you add a trellis for looks or practical reasons, consider a few tips:

• Think about how you’ll anchor the trellis to the wall or structure or into the ground. Manufactured trellises should come with anchors.
• The strength of the trellis and anchor system depend on the plant you intend to train around it. Our neighbor had English ivy on an old wooden trellis and we knew it was going to collapse any day. It did about month ago, taking our privacy with it. Ivy is too heavy for the structure it was on, especially if not constantly trimmed.
• That leads to the next tip: You have to keep up with the plant. Just putting a trellis in doesn’t mean the plant automatically grows how and where you want it to go. You need to keep up with regular trimming and help direct the plant’s growth onto and around the trellis. It still beats letting a vine run amok on the ground, fence, roof or into other plants and should require less maintenance.
• Trimming also helps improve the look and use of your trellis, leaving some space for sun and breeze if you choose. You may not want shade (Aristolochia durior, or Dutchman’s Pipe, is a good choice), so keep that in mind when you choose the plant and as you trim. Or you may want quick coverage; if so, choose a fast grower such as Polygonum auberti, or Silver Lace vine.

Finally, check to see if the plant is evergreen if you want your trellis covered all year long.

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by Teresa Odle

Each year, American gardeners face frustrating problems with their edible or ornamental gardens. Many of these are caused by likable critters and others by creepy crawlers. Controlling pests requires a little knowledge and attention. Here are MasterGardening.com’s Top 10 garden pests and a few control tips:

Deer can destroy an entire season of hard work in one night.

1.Deer- Sorry, but these lovely, peaceful animals were tabbed as causing the most widespread wildlife damage in a USDA national survey. Gardeners who live near them don’t help matters by inviting them near their gardens when they want to impress visitors. The first step in managing deer is to stop providing winter feed or salt. Clean up all unharvested fruits and vegetables, too; these steps make your property less attractive come spring. If you still see telltale signs of deer damage, jagged edges on torn leaves or bark scraped off trees,you can try deer repellents, scare devices or fencing. The type of fence depends on your needs, such as the size of the area that needs protecting.

2. Snails and slugs- Mollusks are unattractive and can do extensive damage. They’re hard to eradicate, and no fun to hand-pick and discard. Fertilizer salts can dehydrate snails, but be sure to use commercial products that have bands of fertilizer for your plants, not table salt, which can harm plants. Sprinkle in a protective border around the plant. Some snail and slug baits are organic, but others are extremely toxic to children, pets and wildlife, so be sure to check the labels and use with caution. And keep mollusks away by removing debris from shaded areas.

3. Aphids- Often hard to see, they show up on new shoots, blooms and the undersides of leaves. Aphids literally suck the sap out of the plant, which produces curled leaves, yellowish spots and a honeydew that ants love. Start by spraying the plant with a steady but soft stream of water every few days until they go away. You also can apply insecticidal soap. Home soap remedies can work but be sure to follow mixing directions and rinse the soap off sensitive plants after it’s had a chance to work on the aphids.

4. Moles and gophers- Depending on the region of the country, one of these critters may be active in the garden year-round. Moles and gophers dig underground tunnels, which can damage lawn and plant roots. Sometimes gardeners can deal with moles, knowing they eat insect larvae and eventually will move on. Most barriers won’t keep out gophers, but rodent fence or hardware cloth may keep a mole out of a flowerbed. Sonic devices are effective against moles and other burrowers.  Place the devices in the tunnels to drive them from your property. Smoke bombs and other repellents can also be an effective way of controlling moles and gophers.

5.Japanese beetles- These distinctively metallic green or copper beetles attack plants from the time they’re larvae in the ground, feeding on roots, until they’re adults ripping foliage from plants in the summer. Surveying for grubs in the ground can help a gardener know if the problem is serious enough to address chemically. Pyrethrum is a good defense for these pests, who love turf and nearly every vegetable and ornamental in the garden. If you use traps, be sure to place them away from the garden; the lures inside attract the beetles.

6.Caterpillars- These seemingly still and innocuous crawlers can do major damage to plants. Cutworms, which are the larvae of Miller moths, can chop off plant seedlings. Farmers dread the corn earworm; the tomato hornworm also plagues home gardeners. The large, creepy worm is hard to find on plants because of its leafy green color. It’s best detected at dawn and dusk. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is the best biological control for caterpillars. Or you can pick the hornworms off and choose your own method of destruction.

7.Rabbits- Cottontails and jackrabbits do similar damage. They really love leafy green vegetables but also go after

Trapping and removing rabbits and raccoons is sometimes the only way to prevent damage.

ornamentals and strip bark in fall and winter. Raccoons do more damage to the house than the garden but love fruits, berries, nuts and grain. First, make your garden less attractive to critters by cleaning up wood piles, overgrown shrubs, dropped seeds from bird feeders and securing trash can lids. Try a protective repellent around the perimeter of your garden. Chicken wire fencing may keep them out, but rabbits can get around chain-link fences. To trap rabbits, try dried alfalfa or clover for bait in cold weather, apples, carrots or cabbage in warm weather. Trapping is about the only control for raccoons. Marshmallows, grapes, prunes and peanut butter will lure raccoons, but not cats, into the trap.

8.Lawn grubs- White grubs are immature larvae of June or May beetles. They feed on all types of grass roots and damage lawns. The grass eventually feels loose and can roll up. The problem is they’re down under, where the gardener can’t see them. But moles digging in the turf or flocks of birds feeding on the grass are possible signs of white grubs. Sampling by digging about three inches deep under edges of affected turf can confirm presence of and help identify lawn grubs. See product listings sure to control the grubs plaguing your turf.

9.Ants- They’re mostly a nuisance and fire ants have a painful sting. But contrary to popular belief, some ants can damage plants. Imported fire ants feed on plant seeds and other insects, which can offset the balance of beneficial insects in the garden. Ants also can tend aphids on ornamentals, protecting aphids from other insects and thus helping them destroy plants. Besides, they’re just annoying and destructive around children and structures. Direct mound applications of granules work best to control these pests.

10.The Gardener- That’s right, control of nearly every pest begins with the care,or neglect of the gardener. It starts with selecting plants appropriate for the climate and less attractive to your region’s pests. Regular and appropriate watering keeps plants healthy, which helps them fight off diseases and many pests. Careful monitoring, quick action and simply paying attention to what’s happening in and around the garden, then researching and purchasing the best products to fight off pests can help ensure that plants remain pest-free. Visit MasterGardening.com for all your deer fencing and garden pest control needs.

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By Teresa Odle

It’s not just that I love pots, as I say every spring when I shop for herbs and ornamentals to fill the decorative containers that scatter our patios and lawn.  Container gardening has so many benefits that if I could, I’d grow just about everything in containers.  Here’s a partial list of the benefits of container gardening:

Flexibility. You can place and move containers anywhere. Our prized Japanese maple is in a large container that we move around the patio, depending on the season’s sun and wind exposure.

Earthbox planters make growing tomatoes and other plants a breeze.

Convenience. Along the same lines, you can place containers with herbs or vegetables closer to your kitchen that you cook with often. If an area looks like it needs something, place the perfectly sized container there and fill it with a plant that matches the sun or shade exposure. I like a decorative pot right by the front door and usually fill it with begonias and a coleus, both of which grow in shade and are low maintenance.

Ergonomics.  Planting a full bed of flowers or weeding a vegetable garden can be hard on the back and knees. Containers and raised beds ease some of the strain on your body. Of course, you might need help hauling the containers around once they’re full and surprisingly heavy. We’ve used wheeled stands, dollies and wheelbarrows to move them around.

Space. Containers are perfect for small spaces, especially decks and patios. Apartment

Save space on your deck by planting in a deck railing container

and condo dwellers can grow their own vegetables and herbs right outside their doors. Even homeowners can place containers in small spaces on patios or in window boxes.

Creativity. Why limit yourself to ceramic or plastic pots? A little junk shopping can produce great containers. Just be sure to create drainage (usually by drilling a hole in the bottom and placing the container on a tray or hanging it) and plant away. We’ve got morning glories in an old washtub from my in-laws and will grow peppers this summer in a claw-foot bathtub.

And each year when I arrange annuals in my containers, it’s like designing a living floral arrangement. I love to give them as gifts, mixing textures , heights and colors for full effect.

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by Teresa Odle

I live in New Mexico, and our average annual rainfall is less than nine inches. The high desert air dries out plants quickly, especially when temperatures reach the 90s. Watering plants and lawns is essential, although also controversial.

So the first rule of watering in dry climates is to select xeric plants for certain areas of the landscape — a  topic for another time. And no matter your average rainfall, try to choose plants that are indigenous to your region. These plants grow well in your climate and soil and should require less watering and overall care.

A watering can makes it easy to care for plants in the farthest corners of your yard.

Container plants need more watering than bedded plants. A one-gallon watering can is perfect, because it holds enough to prevent repeated trips but isn’t too heavy.  I keep one in my front yard and one in the back yard. We fill them up from the faucets to water herbs and tomatoes growing in containers and use saved rain water from our roof to water some of the container ornamentals.

Soil type also determines how often to water. Naturally, water drains more quickly from

Reduce your water usage in dry months by collecting water in a rain barrel

sandy soil than from clay.  So you may be able to go four and a half days between irrigating vegetables in clay soils, but need to water your bushes in sandy soil every day during hotter months. Heat really pulls water out of plants.

Signs of water stress include wilting, leaf rolling, color changes, burnt leaves or leaf drop. But don’t assume just because a plant looks unhealthy, it needs water. Overwatering also damages plants by rotting roots. Dig your finger into the soil; if it’s damp, your plant probably has enough water for now.

It’s best to water containers and other plants in the early evening or very early in the morning, before they become stressed.

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By Teresa Odle

If you’re not lucky enough to live next to a river, creek, waterfall or other natural water feature, you can add one to your landscape easily. The reason fountains are so popular is that they block out city sounds and add what I think is one of the most beautiful and calming sounds in nature — the sound of water.

Create tranquil water sounds with a multi-tiered fountain

Think about where you’d like to place your fountain. Aesthetics are important, but so are practicalities. You’ll want your fountain near where you normally sit and relax outside, such as close to the patio table, or place a bench or chair near the pond once you install it.  Consider how your fountain’s water pump is powered. You either have to place it near electricity or if it’s solar powered, in the sun.

And you need a water source for the fountain, so be sure your hose can reach the reservoir or if you choose to use gray

Bring Old World Style to your Backyard with a Lion Head Fountain

water or rain water, place the fountain where it can fill easily. Most commercially purchased fountains don’t waste a great deal of water, but your city may have water use rules. Water features with large waterfalls or long, shallow areas of standing water waste the most. If you set up your fountain to minimize splatter and ensure there are no leaks, you actually cool down the area around the fountain for you and the birds. Of course, you also provide a nice place for birds to drink.

You can further conserve water by placing your fountain in the shade. If you live in a warmer climate, the shade probably makes it more likely you’ll sit by fountain and enjoy the lovely sounds the water makes. Add drought-tolerant plants nearby. Just beware that certain trees and plants are messier than others and may drop lots of gunk into your fountain. Be sure to purchase a skimmer that’s the appropriate size. Then sit back and enjoy.

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By Teresa Odle

Earth Day 2010 is right around the corner on April 22; it marks the 40^th anniversary of the day that celebrates the birth of the environmental movement. Just like starting a garden, the idea of saving the planet seems overwhelming. But you don’t have to organize an event or change your entire lifestyle. You can start with a square foot or so of space to grow your own food.

Back Porch ComposTumbler

If you have no yard, try a corner of your balcony. Any area that gets about six to eight hours of sunshine a day should be able to sustain a small herb or vegetable garden. Fill it with your own soil, including some compost, which you eventually can make from kitchen scraps and yard clippings.

No matter the size of your garden spot, the concept of square-foot gardening is to divide it into small squares about one foot in size and plant one crop in each square. According to the Nature Conservancy, this technique uses 90 percent less water and 95 percent fewer seeds. It’s easier to weed a smaller garden, reducing the temptation for you to spray with herbicides.

Bonide Insecticidal Soap

And remember to take a sort of medical approach to your plants, especially those you’ll eat, of “first do no harm” and preventive care. This approach also helps the environment. If you keep your plants healthy with regular appropriate watering and attention, they can better fight off diseases and pests. That’s the first step and it’s totally organic.  Next, try the least toxic method of pest control first. That’s usually the no-chemical approach, such as spraying off aphids with a stream of water or picking off squash bugs and drowning them in a bucket of soapy water. The next least toxic effect is organic pest control, such as insecticidal soap. If you use these, be sure to check the time between use and when it’s safe to harvest and eat.

After you’ve planted you garden, you can add a fruit or nut tree appropriate for your zone that will produce food for your family and maybe shade a west-facing wall, which can save a little on energy costs. Then take a walk through your neighborhood or to a local park and just enjoy being outside on the planet Earth.

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By Teresa Odle

Choosing vegetables that you enjoy is key to the success of your garden.

The best and easiest part of a home garden is choosing and buying vegetable seeds. It’s like shopping for food; don’t do it when you’re hungry. It’s best to plan your garden a little, but not get too hung up on the details or the next thing you know, it’s late June and your crop choices have narrowed considerably. First, choose foods you’ll eat or work with a family member or neighbor to trade.

Hot House with Heated Mat

Seeds need warmth and moisture to germinate, so depending on your climate and appetite for all things crunchy, you might start your seeds indoors. In colder climates, simple seed starting trays help you start your own transplants. If your house still is pretty cool like mine, you might need something with more heat. An indoor hot house with a heated mat can start enough seeds for a large family garden. The seed packets usually provide all the information you need to help determine the best transplant size and time for your zone.

You also can plant directly in your garden. In the last post, I talked about preparing and protecting a raised bed. Seedlings are really vulnerable to all sorts of crawling and flying creatures. Check the seed packet or local sources, such as master gardener hotlines and cooperative extension offices, if you need help with timing of cool and warm season vegetable planting in your area. And if you feel really ambitious, create a succession planting plan. With planning, timing, and luck, you might be able to run three crops in the same spot one after another through one growing season.

When I direct seed, I always want to be sure the seeds produce and make the mistake of using too much seed, then having to thin later. The general rule of thumb is to plant about twice as many seeds as the number of plants you desire. Plant seedlings based not on the plant’s current size, but on its potential size. Again, seed packet instructions are pretty accurate on spacing and depth advice. Create a planting guide by stretching a string between two stakes close to the dirt. This will help you create nice rows for your vegetables. Then sit back in the warm weather, water away and enjoy.

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During WWII, nearly 20 million Americans planted Victory Gardens because fruits and vegetables weren’t available. Today, it’s more about using our own yards and patios to grow food for our families, sort of a return to the past and a way to save natural resources. I also grow my own food because of taste and economy.

No matter where you shop, you can’t beat the freshness of a basil or lettuce leaf picked from your own backyard and eaten within the hour. And there’s some up-front investment but once you begin harvesting, the food is free for the taking. You know where it came from and what goes into making it so good. You also have little to no waste.

If you have yard space, try a spot that has deep, well-drained soil. Your best bet is a raised bed. I like mine for a number of reasons. First, I can place it in the best spot. Ever heard of a microclimate or microenvironment? That’s a spot in your yard that gets more or less shade or wind or maybe where cold air accumulates. An example is a spot against a south-facing wall. You can expect temperatures to be higher there and the warmth to hold further into the evening. I also like my raised bed because I spend more time with my vegetables than with other plants, doing tasks like weeding, checking for insects, trellising, and harvesting, of course. Raised beds warm up faster in the spring than the ground, an advantage in most climates. Finally, I like a cover on my bed until the seedlings reach maturity. I think it helps boost the temperature and cuts down on visits from cats, dogs, birds, and at least the hopping and flying insects. Herbs work well in a raised bed or pots. I always have some rosemary and basil in pots on my front porch, close to the kitchen.

For vegetables, you want soil that’s rich in humus, or organic matter. If your ground is thawed and soft enough to work, you can start preparing the soil. Add compost and gently shovel to mix it in. Don’t apply straight manure in the spring because it doesn’t have time to break down before you plant. Of course, you can prepare your raised bed the same way, using a mixture of sand, silt and clay for the soil base.  I lay down a drip hose (they’re cheap) that’s attached to a splitter on my back faucet. Remember water needs when you plan the location.

Think about what you’ll plant before you buy your raised bed. If you’re really industrious and have the space, you might need two beds. Or you can use a combination of a raised bed, some ground for plants that start later or need to trellis up a wall, and pots for herbs, cherry tomatoes, or even edible flowers or a small lemon tree. Start thinking about the fresh foods you buy and enjoy the most and get to know your climate. Next week, we’ll talk about starting seeds and planting in rows.

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By Teresa Odle

Every gardener has questions. How many times have you struck up a conversation with a neighbor or co-worker about a gardening triumph or more likely a problem?

Gardening can be frustrating but always fun and rewarding. I didn’t pay much attention to it as a child, even though my mother was a terrific gardener. My earliest memory is that one of the flowers was called a “touch-me-not.” Mom adapted easily when we moved from the humid sea level zone of South Carolina to the hot desert of Phoenix and she and my father created their own oasis in the back yard of their new suburban home.

But it wasn’t until I settled down with an avid gardener in Albuquerque, N.M., that the bug really hit me. I wanted to learn more and attended four months of master gardener training. The program was terrific, taught by state and county cooperative extension agents who really know their stuff. I got a certificate and a T-shirt but can’t call myself a Master Gardener because I couldn’t continue with required courses and volunteer hours when I took a full-time job again.

What do you think was the greatest lesson from the training? It wasn’t the soil type or when our first and last freeze occur, although that’s helpful information. The greatest lesson is this: experience still is the best teacher. All of the courses armed me with tools but I learned more from problem-solving when residents called the hotline, from riding around with the extension agent when he made visits to peoples’ lawns and from my own time in the garden. And I still learn from my husband and my mother, who never had any training but who have more experience than me.

So come to this blog for some gardening tips and answers, but most of all, get out there and garden. Trial and error will help you master your garden.

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Ah, the great outdoors!  There’s no place like it for invigorating activity and rejuvenating fresh air. Whether you’re weeding, mulching or raking, there are several products that we carry that would help make your clean-up job much easier!

Check out our Patriot Honda 4Hp Gas Wood Chipper Leaf Shredder

and Patriot Chipper Shredder Vac 15′ Leaf Vacuum Kit

Or, maybe you just need a bag large enough to hold all of your landscaping debris like our Lawn Bag – Landscape (202 gal.).  Either way, we can help when it comes to maitenence jobs like cleaning up your backyard!

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